One nondescript weekend in November,
Isabel, Andrew and I made our way up to Lake Tazawa to get our (heinously
cheap) ski rentals for the year.
If you’re an ALT or Akita International University
student もごころ(Magokoro) rentals near Lake Tazawa if
your place. ¥4000 for skis, poles and boots for the
season.
| Gardeners in Kenroku-en |
That evening we joined in a board game
night in Kakunodate, where a local business owner opened her restaurant for us
to take over and fed us for a small fee.
The next morning Isabel and myself were
awoken by Andrew’s chilling announcement of ‘guys, I don’t want to alarm you,
but it’s winter’. Sure enough the view outside his apartment window was off a 4
inch thick blanket of snowy white. We were not prepared for this.
After recording their latest podcast for
their series J.E.T set pod (shamless plug: can be found on sound cloud) which I
was invited to make a guest appearance in, Andrew and I headed out into the elements
and down to the local community centre to get bundled, tugged and bound into
kimono. The girls got a chance to wear a traditional wedding robe, that not
only turned out to be rather heavy, but also cost thousands of dollars just to rent for a couple of days.
| Kenroku-en feat. trees with snow ropes |
Fast forward to 6am Thursday morning and
Steph, Liam, Kate and myself had bundled into Kate’s car and begun making our
way south to Kanazawa, Ishikawa prefecture. Our first stop was the Kenroku-en
gardens, boasted as one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens, and
fortunately due to how far south we were, still shrouded in koyo.
Unable to resist the siren call of coffee
shops, we stopped in at ‘full of beans’ for lunch. After a short recuperation
at the Airbnb (I’ll leave out the hectic parking situation caused by the
impossibly narrow road) we walked back down into the CBD, our target: The
Cottage, Irish café and restaurant. Walking into the small cosy restaurant
decorated with fairy lights, it really did feel like Christmas. The owners,
Tony and Momo, were fantastic hosts (to the point where we all decided we
wanted them to adopt us) and we were treated to roast chicken, pizza and tea. We
spent the rest of the evening wandering through Kanazawa’s Tea district and
hopped between a couple of bars.
| Late night in the tea district |
Friday morning it was another reasonably
early start, a short stop for a Lawson breakfast, and then inland to visit the
thatched roof Villages of Gokayama in Toyama and Shirakawago in Gifu
Prefecture.
We were not prepared for the weather. I
have never seen such large clumps of snow in my life. At risk of sounding counterintuitive
it would have been better if it had been colder. As it was the temperature was
still above zero and as a result we spent the morning trekking around in slush,
feeling our toes from cold, to freezing, to numb. I had previously visited
Shirakawago in January with Henry on our winter holiday but the scenery had
been nothing like this. The thatched rooves were sprinkled with white dust and
the view from the lookout at Shirakawago was stunning.
| Shirakawago, Gifu |
There may have been a small debacle when
Kate lost her go-pro down the snowy bank and we had to ask the shop assistant
for something to retrieve it with. The young girl cracked up laughing when we
explained what had happened and hurried off to grab tools for us. Armed with a
snow scoop and pole we tested the stability of the section of bank before Kate
and Liam climbed over the fence (we had drawn a small crowd by this stage).
With Kate hanging onto Liam, Liam hanging onto the fence, myself holding onto
Liam and Steph to Kate’s bag, Liam lowered Kate down into the snow and undergrowth.
A few minutes later we returned triumphant to the gift shop to return the snow
scoop and pole.
The decision to return to the Airbnb to
thaw out ( I had to wring my socks out once back in the car) was unanimous and
we swung by the McDonald’s drive through to avoid having to put our damp shoes
back on.
| Shirakawago, Gifu |
That evening we found a Thai restaurant for
dinner and watched the skies flash with lightning before unleashing a hail
storm that turned the ground white in minutes. We continued to partake in our
new favourite pastime – bar hopping. A favourite for the night was the Kanazawa
music bar where all four of us fell a little bit in love with the stunning lass
who was the designated record disk jockey. We also couldn’t resist a trip to
H&M.
| Tojinbo Coast, Fukui |
Saturday saw us ticking off the 4th
prefecture for our trip; Fukui. The coastal drive took us to the basalt cliffs
of Tojinbo. The first word that springs to mind on seeing the hexagonal stone
pillars is ‘rugged’. With dramatic chasms and bluffs carved out by the violent
waves with area is sadly also a popular spot for suicides (after our trip to
Kegon falls we seem to be making an inadvertent habit of this…). In the early
noughties a retired police officer grew tired of fishing bodies from the sea
and began patrolling the cliffs for people looking to jump, he and his
organisation is said to have saved over 500 lives over 11 years. The popularity
of Pokémon Go has also helped to deter suicides due to the Poké stops at the coast
drawing visitors after dark where it would previously have been deserted.
| Oshima Bridge |
We wandered back up to the lane of shops to
indulge in some of the local delicacy, crab (served by a very bewildered Jii-chan who seemed perplexed by our
general existence). A short stop for kinako
(roasted soy bean flour) flavoured soft cream and we continued around the coast
to the Oshima Bridge which spanned from the mainland to Ojima Island.
Returning to Kanzawa we spent the rest of the
evening bar and restaurant hopping, our food stops including hot cakes and a
Korean restaurant. Wandering the city looking for another bar to grace Liam
spotted coloured lights on the 9th storey of a building so, drawn
like moths, we ventured over to check it out.
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| The small selection of soft cream flavours we had to choose from |
On arrival we were delighted to discover
that it was an ‘ethnic garden bar’, paying our ¥500 for a self-poured drink we collapsed into the outdoor furniture style
table and chairs and toasted to finding somewhere interesting. About 15 minutes
later we noticed a pole being erected on the small stage, then the lights were
turned down, then we noticed that about 98% of the clientele were male.
And then we noticed the slim, bikini clad Thai lady in platform stilettos making her way to the stage…
And then we noticed the slim, bikini clad Thai lady in platform stilettos making her way to the stage…
Following the events of the garden bar we
spent the next hour meandering through the streets and around the drunken
salarymen going down like dominoes left right and centre. We finally came to a
French bar that had no seating charge. The three brothers that ran the place
were half French and half Japanese, with their father being from Kanazawa they
had visited every year before deciding to open a bar together. Seeming to enjoy
the English conversation, one of the brothers came over for a chat and we
talked about standing out in Japan as ‘foreigners’ (a word that I have come to
despise) and how in spite of being half Japanese and speaking the language
almost fluently, he was still an outsider.
| Slightly less impressive than the Kurobe Dam |
Sunday saw another early start and brisk
breakfast of Lawson coffee to fuel our long journey northward. We had planned
to visit the Shomyo falls and Kurobe damn in Toyama on the way home but after
taking a 2 hour detour to get there, were informed that due to the unexpected
amount of snow, they were unreachable unless we took an additional four hour detour
and approached the mountain path from the other side.
Defeated, we returned to the coast and continued north through Niigata and the rain that we were convinced had stayed there since our decent on Thursday morning.
Defeated, we returned to the coast and continued north through Niigata and the rain that we were convinced had stayed there since our decent on Thursday morning.
As I’m writing this on the 1st
of December, the first official day of winter, a sheet of white has slowly been
spreading over Konoura.
Winter has come again.
And having just typed this my JTE returned to the staffroom from the corridor and curled into a ball in front of the heater like a cat before the fireplace.
Winter has come again.
And having just typed this my JTE returned to the staffroom from the corridor and curled into a ball in front of the heater like a cat before the fireplace.






















