The Great Japan Pilgrimage 2 - Part V: Chiran and Sakurajima

Along the main street of Chiran

It was nice to have someone else to do the driving. After trundling south from Kagoshima for an hour we arrived in Chiran, renowned for its well preserved Samurai district and gardens. A stark contrast to the snowy landscape of Akita that I had recently departed, the Samurai homes had their sliding doors flung open, letting the warm winter sun (see THAT wouldn’t be a thing in Akita) flow beautifully into the tatami matted interiors.

We found a tiny local okonomiyaki restaurant (お好みカフェ 翔 Okonomi Cafe Ryu) where we over indulged in both okonomiyaki, takoyaki and then coffee (nearly a week here and Henry was still excited about the food).

Chiran Samurai Residence Gardens

Back in Kagoshima city we found ourselves at a lavishly decorated bar (B.B13 Bar), which after discovering the ￥1000 seating charge, we decided to dedicate ourselves to for at least a couple of drinks. To their credit, the snacks provided as part of the seating charge were delicious and the staff were wonderful. As we were leaving one of the bowtie-clad barmen came to the table to see us off and wish us well in Japanese, asking that we visited Kagoshima again. He then asked me how to say this in English so he could repeat it to Henry himself, which just warmed my heart.

Samurai Residence, Chiran

On our last morning on Kyushu we caught our next ferry of the trip across the strait to Sakurajima. Our week of travels starting to catch up with us (or rather me) we opted for a leisurely stroll along the Nagisa lava trail followed by resting our well worn feet in the foot onsen with a view of the volcano in the background.

Carting our suitcases across the city on the trams we found the bus that would take us to the airport, ending our time in Kyushu and seeing the start of our holiday in Okinawa.

Sakurajima

After reading Number9dream I was under the impression that Kagoshima was a smaller, harbour city. Wrong. Maybe it had something to do with the fact that it is right down the southern tip of Kyushu that lead both Henry and I to believe it would be that small. We were surprised to find that it was actually the largest city that we had visited in Kyushu and fell into the ‘small enough to have character but big enough to have shit to do’ category that I lovingly bundled Sapporo and Kanazawa into.

After a whirlwind of beaches, shrines, mountain roads and izakayas, our time in Kyushu had come to a close.

The Great Japan Pilgrimage 2 - Part IV: Yakushima

Yakushima

Ever since reading Number9dream by David Mitchell I had wanted to visit Yakushima. This desire was only deepened upon seeing photos that my friends had taken there. The hotel in Kagoshima kindly agreed to store our luggage for us while we spent a night away on the island so armed only with backpacks and a lawsons breakfast we boarded the first ferry of our trip.

On our arrival we collected our rental car, chowed down on a bowl of donburi/ramen (Henry was responsible for the ramen consumption, after over a year here I have learned that one bowl a week is my limit).

Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine

Racing against what little daylight Japan offers in the winter months we wound our way inland to the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine. Many of the islands cedar trees were felled for shingles during the Edo period, now however the island is a dedicated national park with some areas declared natural world heritage sites (which Japan has a LOT of, see mock article: http://www.therisingwasabi.com/unesco-adds-whole-of-japan-to-world-heritage-list-to-save-time/ )

It is supposed to rain ‘35 days a month’ on Yakushima, so it seems we were incredibly lucky to get almost 2 days there with beautiful weather allowing us to traipse through the ancient cedar forests. Both Shiratani and Yakusugi land have nicely laid out routes, ranging from around 30 mins to a full day hike. We took on the loop tracks that were about 1~2 hours in both areas. I don’t think I’d seen that much green since leaving NZ. The layers and layers of fallen trees, moss and plant matter on the forest floor told of the age of the forest, the serenity of it all made it obvious as to why the Island had been an inspiration for the Ghibli film Princess Mononoke.

Oogawa Waterfall

After our trek through Shiratani we visited some mildly unimpressive ‘lava pillow rocks’, and indulged in a stunning meal at a small izakaya-style restaurant in the main town (じいじ家
 jiijika- wonderful atmosphere). Well fed we prepped ourselves for a late night drive down to
Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen. The onsen is based on the seaside, open to the public and asks for a ￥100 entrance fee for maintenance which you leave in a donation box. With nothing but the sound of waves it took until our eyes adjusted a little (though thankfully not too much) to realise that there were a couple of naked men wandering between the different pools. In the darkness we had to glance at the row of shoes left at the start of the path to gage how many other bathers there were before we too continued barefooted to the steaming pools. Usually bathing suits are prohibited in onsens (how’s that for culture shock) but given the hour we ventured there and the lack of light we snuck in with our togs on (and as it turned out there was a Japanese couple there that had done the same, so maybe we aren’t at risk of getting smote down by kami-sama). With waves tumbling nearby and a sky of stars overhead, it was absolute bliss.

Road Blocks

We ventures out early the next morning to make the most of our last few hours on the Island. Our first stop was Yakusugi land for more shinrinyoku before we set off on a loop of the island. Our journey was certainly not a rushed one, due mainly to the narrow winding roads, as well as the numerous road blocks along the way. By road blocks i mean deer and monkeys that simply sat in the middle of the road and refused to move until out tiny k-car was practically on top of them.

Relishing the knowledge that we weren’t going to be behind the wheel for the next couple of days we nabbed a couple of Asahi’s from the vending machine at the port while waiting for our ferry back to the mainland (Japan has a zero-alcohol policy).

Back in Kagoshima we grabbed a complimentary beer from the Izakaya attached to our hotel and wandered round to the waterfront for a sushi train dinner.

The Great Japan Pilgrimage 2 - Part III: Miyazaki, Kirishima and Kagoshima

Udo Jingu, Miyazaki Coast

Driving down the highway in Miyazaki, coffee at the ready while blue seas and palms trees flashed by, I got that same anticipation and excitement for summer that I had last year during a drive down the Niigata coast. Just the promise of summer leaves you feeling so content.

There were many ocean views to be had on our drive down the Miyazaki coast to Udo Jingu. Arriving at the Shrine site we breathed in the fresh sea air before diving into the forest, clambering over rocks and roots and descended into the gaping mouth of a coastal cave that housed a small humble shrine. The peacefulness and lack of other tourists at the smaller shrine made approaching the main shrine a little jarring, but the breath taking view of the coast, and challenge of throwing clay pebbles into a rope ring for good luck made it worth it.

Kirishima Shrine

From Udo Jingu we veered inland to an onsen in the Kirishima mountains. It was closed. But we found a pretty sweet waterfall instead!
After climbing back up the hill, through the pine forests to the car we continued to Kirishima Shrine, blazing orange in the setting sun. As the light left the day we arrived in Kagoshima city, found black pork ramen for dinner and a small bar to indulge in a mojito or two before calling it a night.

The Great Japan Pilgrimage 2 - Part II: Christmas Day: Mt Aso and Miyazaki

Road to Mt. Aso

Our Christmas day was certainly not your usual family and food filled celebrations. We opened a couple of presents in our hostel room and dined on a breakfast of combini finds as we wound up way up the ‘milk road’ so named due to the number of farms in the area.

We continued through to Mt. Aso, the already chilly weather growing colder and colder as we climbed until shallow puddles and marshes were frozen over and I began to regret my choice of attire. The refreshing sight of rugged hills and unused land was welcome after living among rice paddies for so long, it was reminiscent of home. The Ropeway to the famous crater lake was closed due to damage during the earthquake and volcanic activity but we were still able to see the plume of gas rising from the depression.

Ama-no-Iwato

Our next destination took us from Kumamoto through to Miyazaki prefecture where we visited Ama-no-iwato. We strolled past the main shrine, and followed the path that lead us down and along a river until we reached the main attraction. According to Japanese mythology (which I studied at uni and was the main reason we were there) the sun goddess Amaterasu was weaving with her maids when her brother Susanoo flung a flayed horse through the roof. Versions differ as to whether Amaterasu or one of her maids (who subsequently died of her injuries) accidentally stabbed themselves down yonder with a weaving shuttle and whether it was from humiliation or distress that she fled and hid herself in a cave, plunging the world into darkness.

Not your usual Christmas dinner

The gods convened in a cave (Ama-no-iwato) and plotted how to lure Amaterasu from her hiding place and restore light to the world. In short this was achieved by a ballsy goddess named Ama-no-Uzume performing a humorous strip tease (which in some accounts involves her shoving her kimono obi in certain places…) which caused the gathered deities to laugh so loudly that Amaterasu peeked out of her cave to investigate.

The path leading up to the cave was lined with hundreds upon hundreds of piles of rocks and pebbles that visitors had left, a sort of natural, anonymous graffiti.

Takachiho Gorge

Our next stop in Miyazaki saw us winding our way down to the Takachiho gorge. We wound our way along the edge of the basalt chasm, catching a view of the waterfall and paddle boats from above, before dropping down to the river side for a leisurely Christmas day row.

Christmas dinner consisted of Izakaya delights in a tiny shut off booth (I’m talking about 1.5x2m squared in a totally enclosed area with a thin bamboo curtain separating us from the next booth).

One of our favourite days of the trip landed on Xmas day as a happy accident. Though I love being able to see so much of Japan our trips together, I caught myself thinking - I’m looking forward to a proper kiwi Christmas next year.