Thursday, 2 March 2017

Surviving the Sub Zero


The past few weeks have been wick with teasings of spring when the snow is all but gone and the sky stays blue for more than 20 minutes, only to be stomped on when you wake up to a white out the next morning.

Takeuchi Festival
I have become accustomed to being told that I have ‘no seasons’ when the teachers notice (which they never fail to do) me sitting in the staffroom in short sleeves, despite the fact that the room about 5 degrees warmer than a Wellington summer. They maintain the fact that it’s below zero outside.

The New Year has come with enough snow for the students at the primary school to go charging out to the hill by the baseball field at lunch time to go for a slide on their toboggans. An exercise which required some of the younger ones to get a helping push, I personally had no qualms in volunteering for this.

Kamakura Festival - Yokote
The snow was not such a welcome constituent during the annual memorial march for Shirase Nobu. The entire school walked through Konoura, stopping at Shirase’s grave where the temple bell was rung, through to the memorial park where a short service was held. The snow blew over us in hail like clumps and with everyone one huddled like penguins I can imagine it looked just like Antarctica which seemed appropriate for the occasion.

The annual Influenza epidemic saw mornings packed with calls home to parents to come and collect their contagious children. Determined to prove that I had a boss gaijin immune system I was the only person in the entire school that was not wearing a facemask. There was a foreboding sense of doom when you walked into a class room to see multiple empty desks amongst a sea of masked (tired looking) faces. Thank god I survived because I don’t know how well I would have handled the inevitable passive aggressive ‘I told you so’ comments if I had gotten sick. I get the feeling that the caretaker now thinks I’m some sort of invincible super human.

Omatsugawa Dam
After a boozy night out in Omagari (which we have endearingly dubbed ‘Omags’) Andrew, Dave, Liam and myself embarked on a hung-over mission to Kitakami for a leisurely explore. Along the way we stopped at Omatsugawa dam to throw a few snow balls and convince Dave it would be a good idea to thrown himself at a wall of snow. Once in Kitakami we realized that we had no idea what was there or what we wanted to do. The trip being Liam’s idea the responsibility was handed to him. We ended up driving 3 hours to go to a Lawson then admit defeat and return to Akita.

To its credit – Tohoku does know how to keep you occupied during the frigid season.
Though not strictly a winter festival, Setsubun does provide an enjoyable distraction from the fact that your feet have spent most of the past 2 months in snow boots. A bunch of us invaded Liam’s flat for the festivities. His friends Yuka and Mai prepared Ehomaki, a sushi roll which is to be consumed in one sitting, which out being removed from your mouth, while facing a particular direction (I believe this year it was North East?). This would have been more successful had there not been numerous bouts of giggles during consumption.

 The main event consists of some poor soul donning a demon mask (Dave and ‘the newbie’ – ie myself- were volunteered for this honour) and having beans thrown at them while the phrase ‘bad luck out, good luck in!’ is shouted. Needless to say there was a fair amount of carnage in the form of scattered peanuts (which we used as a more affordable alternative to beans) following this exercise, so Dave and I took it upon ourselves to clean up…to put it simply Liam now has a peanut in every single one of his shirt pockets and will be finding them all over his apartment until he moves out.

Takeuchi Festival
Even more violent that the peanut brandishing antics of Setsubun, was the Misato Takeuchi festival. This event consists of 2 groups of grown sake’d up helmet donning men bashing each other with bamboo poles. Full stop. The front lines turn into something of a rugby scrum while the guys further back continue to whack people with 20 foot long poles. Before the final round a bonfire is lit which adds to the chaos and atmosphere.

A more sedate activity is the Kamakura festival in Yokote. Igloos with a width of 1.5 metres and height of 2 metres are constructed along footpaths and in parks for passerbys to enter (after removing their shoes) and sit around a brazier while consuming amazake and rice cakes. At the rear of each of the kamakura is a makeshift shrine dedicated to the water deity (suijinsama). Along the river bank were hundreds of tiny Kamakura about a foot tall, each with a candle inside.

Last Saturday a couple of ladies from my English conversation group roped the Nikaho ALTs into a cooking exchange at the Kisakata community centre. Please not – for a person with effectively zero culinary skills, finding a recipe that has ingredients that can be found in Akita (I had to drive for nearly 90 minutes to find golden syrup), is cost effective, does not require hours of prep time or refrigeration and does not require an oven, is quite a mission. After trawling through recipe after recipe I finally settled on fettuccine salad and Hedgehog slice. Unable to find icing sugar I made the executive decision to use grated chocolate as a topping for the slice, this nearly turned to custard when the bloody granddads kept nibbling away at the chocolate bars while watching the women cook pasta.

Kamakura
One thing this winter has been brilliant for is skiing. After a rather leisurely day at our local ski field Yashima, when I didn’t fall over once, I decided that if I didn’t fall over at Geto Kogen in Iwate- I wasn’t trying hard enough. What I hadn’t anticipated was that Dave, Cari and I would take a wrong turn and attempt a completely un-groomed path that would see all three of us going over simultaneously.

After a few hours of throwing ourselves around in the snow we retired to the onsite onsen, my favourite thus far is probably Tsuru no Yu in Tazawa but this one definitely came in a close second. The outdoor hotspring was effectively a toasty infinity pool that looked out over snow covered mountains, the image framed by icicles hanging from the veranda.

The end of the winter holiday with Henry brought with it an abrupt plummet from the honeymoon phase of JET. The little things that annoy you accumulate and the realization that you are now well and truly sick of rice but are not even half way through your stay hits hard.

Mini Kamakura
Amongst the cold and icy roads, I had to experience one of my best friend’s 21st birthday through snapchat updates and instagram posts. While I am grateful that technology allowed this to happen (and I have a wonderful boy in my life that kept me updated) it was hard not being there.
By the way Jodi you are gorgeous and I miss you heaps x


Here’s hoping that spring will chase some of those winter blues away. The temperature is forecasted to hit double digits this week, and on the weekend it was so sunny that I actually wound down my car windows driving back from the cooking exchange. Dreams of beaches, swimming and being able to wear shorts again are growing bigger as cherry blossom season draws nearer.

No comments:

Post a Comment