The Great Japan Pilgrimage 2 - Part VIII: Kyoto and Shiga

View from Kiyomizudera

Touching back down on the mainland of Japan for the first time in 2 weeks, we took no time in finding crap to take pictures of (I am of course skimming over the bus ride from Itami airport to Kyoto, navigating our way out of Kyoto station, lugging bags up numerous flights of stairs, Henry taking pity on my utter lack of upper body strength and lugging my bag up stairs for me….).

 Word of warning for travellers to Japan - there are a LOT of buildings and tourist attractions that are partially to totally out of commission as the country preps for the 2020 olympics. Kiyomizudera is one of them. Despite hearing that the main hall was covered in scaffolding, a friend had reassured me that it was still worth a visit. Maybe it was the satisfaction of having survived the walk up the crowded street of stalls, or the cream puff that gave us a sugar boost, or the stunning view of Kyoto from the top, but the friend wasn’t wrong.

Kinkakuji - the Gold Pavilion

On our first full day in Kyoto we ventured out early to visit kinkakuji, the golden pavilion. Built initially as a retire crib for Shogun AShikaga Yoshimitsu then converted into a Zen temple following his death, it seemed a like a good way of ensuring a cushy retirement and zilch inheritance for your kids. Having said that his grandson did the same thing, building ginkakuji (the silver pavilion) which was also on our list for the day. It is a stunning and peaceful complex to stroll around (could see myself having a happy retirement there) and, out of the many temple that we visited that day, was a personal favourite.

Ginkakuji - the Silver Pavilion

Other’s that we ventured to included Shimogamo shrine, after which we strolled down the philosopher's path (blissfully quiet due to winter being the only season in which it doesn’t look stunning) to Nanzenji, possibly more impressive than the temple was the sodding

great aqueduct chillin in the vicinity.

Nanzenji Aqueduct

Along our strolls we stumbled across the old railroad that was used to transport cargo ships between lake Biwa in Shiga prefecture and Kyoto before stumbling upon a delectable burger restaurant.

We strolled along the river which lead us into the main city, locating an okonomiyaki restaurant. One solid feed of okonomiyaki (and one recuperation beer) later we went via a second hand camera shop (one of many on the trip) and checked out Hanatorou the lantern lit restaurant street before trudging our weary feet home.

With the desire to beat the flocking tourists giving wing to our heels, we arrived at the Fushimi Inari Shrine gates early Sunday morning and began winding our way through the ongoing string of vibrant orange and red. The magic of the place that one feels after watching the likes of Memoirs of a Geisha evaporates somewhat upon realisation that the gates are effectively a bribe to the god inari from companies who have paid exuberant amounts wishing for good business.

Lake Biwa from the Biwako Ropeway

Regardless we continued our climb through the gates up the hill, the hordes of visitors growing steadily thinner until we reached the lookout over Kyoto. Feeling somewhat shrined-out after our many visits the day prior, that afternoon we stole away to Shiga prefecture to look out over Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest lake, from the Biwako ski area.

Content with the stunning winter scenery, leisurely lakeside stroll (after the not so leisurely trudge up the hill to the ropeway) and the fact that we had crossed another prefecture off the list within one cheeky afternoon outing, we returned to Kyoto and boarded a local train to Osaka for the last leg of our holiday.

Fushimi Inari